Mar
How to Smoke a Hookah - Hookah Charcoal and Heat Management
As a veteran in the hookah industry, I have tested and tried an extremely wide variety of hookah products (we’re always running tests and experiments to find the best hookah supplies) and hookah troubleshooting tips to smoke a perfect bowl of shisha. I take as much pride in my hookah smoking abilities as I do in my hookah teaching abilities, and would like to share both by starting a blog series on how to smoke a hookah.
Today’s blog focuses on heat management. Though the top of the hookah today may be one of the most neglected parts when smoking a hookah, it can be one of the most influential parts of the hookah smoking experience.
For those of you that don’t know, a hookah is heated by hookah charcoal. Some hookah charcoals are easier to light and arrange than others, but they all serve one common purpose: to heat a hookah bowl. Heat management and maintaining the heat transfer is the key to gaining the perfect hookah smoke. A common misconception about hookahs concerns the burning of the tobacco. When smoking a hookah, you are never trying to burn the hookah tobacco, you’re merely trying to evaporate and vaporize all the honeys and sugars in which the shisha tobacco is marinated in. Thus the reason for using charcoal instead of an open flame (as with smoking cigarettes or a cigar). This also explains why the spent hookah tobacco is still in the hookah bowl, unlike cigarette or cigar tobacco burned to ash. Another example of this method of tobacco smoking can be seen in Eclipse Cigarettes. If I remember correctly, these cigarettes contain a small carbon (charcoal) rod running down the middle of the cigarette. The tobacco is soaked in glycerin and, once the carbon rob is ignited, it evaporates the glycerin off of the tobacco. When smoking this cigarettes you are ideally getting no tobacco smoke, just vaporization. The nicotine is still transferred to the smoker though because the glycerin acts as a transfer agent and pulls the nicotine out of the tobacco in the vaporization transfer. That is essentially the same concept of what is happening when you are smoking a hookah. You are ideally only vaporizing the shisha tobacco and that is why the smoke is smoother. You are still extracting nicotine and other things out of the tobacco though, so that is why some people still get the nicotine buzz when they smoke a hookah. Typically, I have found that cigarette smokers don’t get as much of the nicotine buzz. It may be worth noting that there is the potential for health concerns with all forms of smoking, those who choose to smoke can learn the optimal way to serve a hookah on our HookahLove blog.
In essence, how a hookah works is based on vaporization: not burning. When you smoke a hookah, the hookah should always be totally sealed. This way, the top of your hookah bowl is the only entrance for air when you pull on the hookah. When charcoal is at a standing state, it is much less hot than when it is being blown on, or in the case of a hookah, when air is being sucked from above the hookah bowl past the hookah charcoal, and through your hookah and hookah hose. For best results, you’d like the hookah charcoal to rest at a cooler temperature when the hookah isn’t in use, and heating up to simmer the tobacco when one pulls air through the hose (and over the coal).
The type of charcoal you use can greatly impact your ability to properly manage the heat of your hookah bowl. My favorite hookah charcoal is undeniably the natural wood charcoal (especially lemon wood charcoal like Romman Lemon Wood Charcoal). Although it takes more effort to ignite and requires more attention than quick-light charcoal, once you get it going it is simple to use. The reason I like natural wood charcoal is because it is much more porous than other charcoal. You can tell this by the simple fact that it weighs less per mass than other compacted charcoal. Other hookah charcoal, like quick-light charcoal, is compact and dense. Having a porous charcoal allows for the charcoal to sit at a lower temperature in its standing (resting) state, and then raise to a higher temperature when you pull through your hookah. I believe that the glycerin and other sugars in the shisha have a lower flash point (the temperature at which an element combusts) than tobacco. So ideally you only want to smoke and thus vaporize the shisha tobacco at the exact point below which the tobacco leaves in your shisha tobacco will start burning. This must be accomplished by never having too much charcoal (and thus heat) on your hookah bowl. That is why when you put too much charcoal, your hookah bowl starts to burn and you see a steady stream of smoke coming out of the top of your hookah bowl. Too much heat, and thus too many leaves are burning.
So, how exactly does natural wood charcoal differ from compacted charcoal? The main fact is that its standing temperature is at a lower heat level than other compressed charcoal. So when you are not pulling on your hookah (as I am while typing this sentence) your hookah bowl is not overheating and thus not burning. Have you ever seen smoke rising from the hookah bowl when you’re not drawing on a hose? That is a telltale sign of excess heat and burning shisha. This is caused either with simply having too much charcoal on your bowl at once and/or pulling too frequently from your hookah and raising the temperature of your hookah bowl above the point at which the tobacco leaves in your hookah tobacco then start to burn.
** Hookah Tip: To solve this common problem, I will typically take the charcoal off of the hookah bowl since its resting state has now reached a temperature that is too high. I will then let the hookah bowl cool down or to speed up the process I will take the bowl off the hookah, cup my hands around the bottom (since the top is scorching hot) and blow through the bottom of the hookah bowl. This is an old technique that Middle Eastern hookah lounges and hookah cafes use when they are replenishing a hookah that has too little charcoal or that has gotten too hot and is thus starting to burn. **
Glyercin boils at a temperature of 290 degrees Celsius and the flavoring used in hookah tobacco is around that temperature if not less. If you have access to a temperature gage - such as my thermocouple - you’ll notice the hookah charcoal on your bowl will be around 320-350 degrees when pulling/smoking your hookah and will drop to around 250-300 (depending on the charcoal you are using and how much). From my observations (just simple fun observations I have made while smoking my hookah), the natural wood charcoals standing state is on the lower end of the scale, while compressed charcoal is at the higher end. When smoking from the hookah, both rise to the 320-350 degrees which allows for the evaporation of the glycerin and minimal or no burning of the tobacco leaf (in fact, some studies show that some cigarettes burn at upwards of 800 degrees). When you then stop smoking your hookah, the temperature will fall back to the 250-280 degrees (if you have the proper amount of lemon wood charcoal. And this is where the lemon wood or other natural wood charcoal has its advantage. Romman Lemonwood charcoal has an estimated standing state of 250-280 degrees while compacted charcoal standing state is 270-300 degrees. Both have 320-350 degrees of smoking state (the state at which air is passing over it and thus heating up the charcoal.
These numbers can be affected greatly by the amount of hookah coal that is on the bowl and the type of hookah bowl you are using. Typically a clay or ceramic bowl always has a lower temperature than a metal bowl (metal conducts heat like crazy but has the advantage of not breaking). Using foil vs. a screen also can have an affect. The foil/screen is supposed to act as a heat barrier to prevent too much heat from contacting the hookah tobacco. Foil works better due to having a thinner barrier that dispels heat at a faster rate than a screen. Plus, the ability to have smaller holes and thus better control the amount of heat entering your hookah bowl allows for you to have more control on what your resting and your smoking state temperature is at.
Hookah Tip: Never fill the hookah tobacco to the top of your hookah bowl. By having a space in between you are creating a space for heat to dissipate easier and are also preventing the hookah tobacco from ever having direct contact with your hookah charcoal.
By allowing the temperature of your hookah bowl to fall below the boiling point of the glycerin, you are preserving your smoke producing ingredient as well as flavor. Thus gaining the best hookah smoke you ever had out of your hookah with the most smoke and most flavor on every puff.
Look for our future posts on the essence of shisha tobacco as well as specific instructions on how to properly use your hookah charcoals.


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When I smoke my hookah in my house, it constantly makes my carbon monoxide detector go off. Why does it do this? Also how can i stop this, my parents are going to stop letting me smoke in my house and its way to cold outside.
March 8th, 2008 at 6:59 pmJohn: Carbon Monoxide is a bi-product of the hookah charcoal you are using. It is also found in the actual smoke you are producing when smoking your hookah. What charcoal are you using? Quick-Light or Natural Coals? Also, be sure to light your charcoal outdoors if you can. I know that a lot of carbon monoxide is released when it is first being lit. In fact, you will typically always want to wait until your hookah charcoal is entirely lit (no black on it) and surrounded by a thin layer of ash before using the charcoal. You then know that your charcoal is fully lit and ready to smoke on your hookah. Otherwise you are smoking the carbon monoxide and other stuff that is being lit while it is still black.
If you are already doing all of the above, I would try and switch hookah charcoal to a cleaner burning brand or kind.
I have also heard that some people use the Heba Smoke Diffuser to decrease carbon monoxide levels by creating more bubbles in your water and thus having more surface area for the smoke to touch the water and thus allowing it to filter more. I personally use a Heba Diffuser no matter what since it makes smoking your hookah much smoother. I’ll talk more about that when I get to the base of the hookah in a future How to Smoke a Hookah series.
One last thing I would try is use if you think it is coming from your charcoal is use an Ultimate Combo Hookah Lid Bowl or you could use a hookah wind cover. What this will do is allow you to use half as much charcoal. The Ultimate Combo Bowl or a wind cover traps the heat in near the bowl, thus requiring about half as much charcoal and thus (if the charcoal is what is causing your carbon monoxide detector to go off) you have much less charcoal that could be causing any problems.
Try those Hookah Tips out (or use them anyways to get a better hookah smoke) and tell us how things went and if it solved your problem.
March 8th, 2008 at 10:30 pmThanks for the tips. I Will try using them asap.
March 9th, 2008 at 1:12 pmHey, this is gonna sound stupid, but can you give step by step directions for lighting the natural coals? I see “throw them on the stove” everywhere, but that doesn’t mean much to me. I have an electric stove at school, what do I do?
March 14th, 2008 at 9:17 pmOleh,
Not a stupid question at all. In fact people as us all the time. In fact, I am making another blog as we speak about the ways to light and smoke from natural hookah charcoal. In the meantime, here are some quick Hookah Tips:
- When smoking your natural coals, be sure to fully burn the charcoal before using it. Meaning, make sure it is red hot all around or at much as you can get it. I typically flip it twice when on an electric stove.
- Place the hookah charcoal directly onto the stove coils so that he gets REALLY hot. You want it to get as hot as you can so that it burns to the core.
- When the charcoal is red hot or close to it, I will typically place it in a charcoal holder or a pan of sorts and push it up against other natural charcoal and let it sit outside. That way, the hookah charcoal are feeding off of each other’s heat and they are lighting up together. This is a great way to add more un-lit charcoal and not have to light it up on a stove. When working with natural charcoal, I typically light more than I need because it is designed to burn much faster than quick-light charcoal.
- If you don’t want to put it on the stove coils and or don’t have a charcoal holder, you can use an old frying pan and put the coal in their. That takes a lot longer and it can depend on your pot/stove. It does work though, and the advantage is that it also doubles as a hookah charcoal holder. The problem is that it is scorching hot and you can’t really put it anywhere after it is done heating.
- And finally, if you are indoors, I will typically use a vent. I will also watch the charcoal because occasionally you can get a piece that I like the call a “smoker”. You will know it when you see it. It is a piece that gives of an exceptionally larger amount of smoke than other hookah charcoal. I believe you can get a “smoker” for one of two reasons. Either it is not the same wood as you are using and might be remnants of another piece of wood being used or it is a natural wood charcoal piece that has residue from other things like leaves or other wood. If you are outdoors, they are no problem and will eventually burn away all the “smoker” elements to it, but when it is indoors, it can make your place smell like a campfire or set off your smoke detector really quick.
Hope this helps…
March 17th, 2008 at 7:03 amI would like to know how to smoke Hookah Correctly….
i’ve tried but i think its not right!!!
I know it sounds stupid… but i honestly want to learn!
March 21st, 2008 at 3:42 pmThanks!
thanks much, man
March 24th, 2008 at 2:32 pmI dont have bricks to lite the hookah, is there something else that I can use?
April 20th, 2008 at 1:01 amWell, well. I learned a thing or 2. Thanks for the artical.
May 9th, 2008 at 8:45 am